Tag: Corpach

May 2021

Part two: getting onto the water

This is the second part of my blog about paddling the Great Glen. The scenery was superb, the weather not great, but the experiences were memorable. Would I do it again? Probably not, but only because there are so many other places to go!

We paddled medium volume Scorpios which were great boats – stable and with a good deal of room for kit. We even had camp chairs…..

If you are planning to do the trip, I hope that you’ll find some useful tips here as well as photos which show a few things that you might look out for. (And I don’t only mean where the pontoons are located!).

The plastic boats were great, as hauling them out onto the pontoons was no small feat as they were quite heavily laden. Still, by the time we’d done a few portages we got quicker and found it easier. There were a good few times that I was glad we didn’t have composite boats! The portages sounded quite tough, but the only ones which really caused us trouble were at Gairlochy (where there were major building works) and at Laggan locks where the signage is unhelpful and lead us to traipse past the cottages.

If you do the trip and enjoy it as much as we did, then you’ll have had a fabulous time.

1. Getting going, the logistics: Parking, loading launching

We planned to paddle from South-West (Banavie, near Fort William) to North-East (Muirtown, Inverness) and as it was just the two of us with one vehicle we needed to get the logistics right and keep the boats safe. Here are a few things that are worth knowing if you are planning to do the Great Glen Canoe trail -GGCT. (Have a look at part one of the blog to see more about which direction works best and why).

We had booked two weeks holiday so that we had a chance to chose the best days weather-wise. As it turned out we didn’t need to use extra time, but with the vagaries of the weather it would always be wise to allow additional days so that if necessary you can sit out for a day and stay safe.

Don’t forget that – as I have mentioned in part one – the book The Great Glen Canoe Trail is invaluable. I’ll just call it ‘The Book’. https://www.pesdapress.com/pdfs/great_glen_canoe_trail_sample.pdf

Orientation

Notes on facilities

Parking at the start: There is a huge car park at Banavie, but it is easier to drive behind the hotel and turn between the houses onto the quay to unload. There is a boat rack near the showers where you can leave the boats. We had a padlock on a long leash which went behind the seats and round both boats.

Provisions and transport: About two miles away there is a big supermarket right next to the bus and rail station. From there it is a short walk into Fort William if you fancy a trip to Nevis Sport (great cafe!) or to pick up something you’ve just realised that you forgot to bring from home!

Left Luggage: There are large left luggage lockers at the station so we left as much as we could there to save carrying kit back on the bus. Yes, there was room for our paddles (all splits). In hindsight we could have done without taking the rucksacks as they were a nuisance on the boats and took up quite a bit of space.

We left the boats on the racks and drove the van to Inverness where we stayed overnight then parked near the Muirtown locks.

It sounds obvious but don’t forget that the end of the paddling trip is above the Muirtown locks. We parked just below them, but it is possible to drive round to a cul de sac to retrieve kit at the end, and save a long portage down to the very bottom (when you might well be tired! We were…)

We took a taxi to the bus station and caught the Stagecoach Highland coach back to Fort William. Check details as they may not be frequent but it was a comfortable, picturesque journey of about 2 hours. Once back at Fort William station we walked over to the supermarket for provisions, collected the kit from left luggage and flagged down a large taxi to take us and all our kit to where we’d left the boats. If you are a minimalist traveller and a fit walker you could carry it all to the start but time seemed to be disappearing fast and it seemed like a slog to walk and carry lots of kit at the beginning of the holiday.

Packing and getting going: A word of advice on packing – practice before you head off! We had done some practice (always need more!) and ended up quite well sorted with not too much kit on the decks (just the C-Tug, camp chairs and some drinks and maps). Be sure have your brew kit handy so that each time you stop you don’t have to re-pack everything just for a cup of tea. Again, it sounds obvious but when you are squeezing kit into every last bit of space in the kayak it can be tempting to move things around.

Learning point number one: remember that it is sometimes easier to put the dry bags into the hatches empty, then filling them when they are in the hatch.  We found that small bottles of beer are fine to wedge into odd places, (very handy!). We could have done with more, smaller bags.  (Actually, the very best way is to have someone with you who is an expert packer! Thank you Christopher 😊)

I don’t think that packing is ever fun, but it was a lovely sunny afternoon and we met some real kayakers (!), three very friendly fellows who had started out at Cape Wrath and were completing the final leg of their circuit back there.  They were taking in some sunshine and having a break after an epic trip so far which had included a day of almost 50 miles after avoiding Ardnamurchan and making a serious detour on lochs and rivers. ( It’s OK, The Great Glen is quite enough for me!) It sounded like a long trip with quite a bit of carrying. What a story that would make.

2. Day one of paddling: Banavie to Gairlochy

Like most people, we started above Neptune’s staircase, feeling that a short paddle at Corpach and then a portage for 500m followed by a 650m portage past the 8 locks of the staircase was probably not going to give us the best start. 

This part of the plan went pretty much as we’d hoped until we reached Gairlochy. It was a steady paddle in the sun and, at just 5.9 miles was a pleasant evening trip enjoying the peace and the scenery with occasional walkers and cyclists on the towpath. The gorse was stunning – great yellow splashes of colour – and the cuckoos were vocal. When I think back to the trip these are two memories that accompanied us for the entire trip.

‘The Book’ had not foreseen the enormous building works that would be at Gairlochy in 2021, so our portage was long and rather awkward.  The exit pontoon was fine (on the North side) but we had to take the boats over the road and across the building site to find a tiny area of grass for the tent.  One of our biggest barriers was the parked diggers, dumpers and trailers where the guys were working.  Still, the C-Tug did its job brilliantly and we certainly felt we’d given it a good test over difficult terrain.  By the time we got back for the 2^nd boat the workmen had brought her up onto the road because they would have blocked us in. Yet another example of some of the lovely kindnesses and hospitality that we experienced on our trip. The upsides of Gairlochy stopover? Stunning views of a snow-capped Nevis range and right by the trail facilities, (hot showers, washrooms).

Leaving Gairlochy the next day was to prove the beginning of the real challenge…….

3. Day two of paddling: Gairlochy to Leiterfearn (Loch Oich and Loch Lochy)

Our first challenge was to find a launch point, since the building works and locked safety fences meant that we had ended up on the South side.  As we manhandled the boats into the waters of the sheltered little marina of Gairlochy Upper the cheerful seadog who shouted ‘you’ll have the wind in your faces today then!’ simply reiterated what we were already expecting on leaving the short stretch of canal for the open waters of Loch Lochy. (Was it named by the same folk who came up with Boaty McBoatface?).

‘The Book’ has a beautiful picture of the little pepperpot lighthouse as you leave the canal, with 3 canoes basking in sunshine on blue water. My dream of that was not to be.  With the weather still not doing as forecast we decided that the south shore might give us some lee from the wind but the crossing to it was bumpy to say the least.  The waves were very short with the grown up ones coming in pairs with a few white tops at around 2ft and the babies in between just keeping us on our toes.

The lovely stable Scorpio and some of our sea practices in the past year meant that this wasn’t as frightening as I’d have found it a year (or even 6 months) ago, but the constant bounce, bump, splash with a continuous eye on what was coming made for a trip that was not just physically, but also mentally tiring.  And this is where my learning point number two comes in.  Would it be more sheltered on the other side? It might be, but crossing the loch is going to be much harder than staying on one side. Make a decision, stick to good heuristics and be certain to make a choice based on sound information. Here I must mention Nick Cunliffe whose Lockdown sessions rang in my ears. Now I think I know what he was talking about! Look him up: https://www.kayakessentials.co.uk.  

‘The Book’ did mention the possibility of short dumping waves and I learned exactly what that meant in practice. Still, I’m all for learning, it’s just that sometimes it is physically hard work as well as mentally testing. Well, by then we were ready for a brew so we stopped at a handy beach on the North shore (not far from Glas D’hoire) where we were rewarded not only with some lovely sunshine but also a stunning view down the Loch.  There is no doubt that we were travelling up a magnificent route with dramatic views. Being May, the trees showed the beautiful young, delicate greens of Spring and the mixed woodlands of deciduous trees, larches and firs made for beautiful scenery. Still with us were glorious patches of gorse and the cuckoo which seemed to be following us closely.

Interesting point: Loch lochy has its very own mythical monster, (rather strangely called Lizzie), which is a river horse said to emerge from the lake and take on equine form to feed on the banks.  Rather darker tales talk of this beastie turning over boats on the loch.  Yes, I can see why…..

A little further on is where ‘The Book’ recommends lowering your sails (I wish!!) and following the green maker buoys round Kilfinnan point as it can be busy. Hmmm. Only just past Lockdown 3.0 and in weather more suitable for a March date, we weren’t distracted by any other craft.

Loch Oich was beautiful and offered quite a few possible rest places (though we didn’t stop).  The mixed woodlands all along our trip in their new May clothes were like some dreamed up painting.  The dense blue-greens of the fir and pine forests punctuated with the delicate yellow-green of the fresh larches and shimmering silver birch added texture and light to the superbly crafted view, whilst the bright yellow gorse framed the scene on the banks. It was this that kept me going here as the headwind had been relentless and the waves unforgiving. The tiredness was in my bones and it is only with hindsight and a few months later that I can say objectively that it was an amazing experience. My forward paddling has improved no end, my confidence upped, and as I look back, the beauty of the Glen and the overall achievement is made greater by knowing it wasn’t plain sailing.

The signage and book are a little ambiguous for the exit at Laggan locks.  As you head to the marina, you’ll see the jetty/pontoons, turn left and go 300m past moored boats and you’ll easily see quite a wide beach for an easy landing (unless you have a composite boat, in which case you will get wet feet). Look to your right and you’ll see the path off the beach and behind the white cottage. There is a low level pontoon on the North side for leaving Laggan locks. Phew.  Another brew to fortify ourselves for the next stretch to Leiterfearn.

And then it started raining. Hard.  Even our tiredness and the rain couldn’t detract from the from the absolute beauty of this tree-lined piece of canal.  It is truly gorgeous. The bright yellow of the gorse and then mixed trees lining both sides lent myriad hues of green to the view and somehow the rain seemed to add to the peace of the place.

From this tranquil scene we headed into Loch Oich.  How could ‘The Book’ have known that Covid and weather would mean no traffic under Laggan swing bridge, no water sports on Loch Oich? No cafes, food stops or pubs? It was still quiet. We still had the place pretty much to ourselves.  ‘The Book’ is spot on in one respect though – Loch Oich is beautiful.

We passed the island on our right and looked across for the trailblazer rest – you can pick it out by the boarded up cottage set back from the shore. There are no facilities except for the composting toilets and if you want running water you’ll need to find the waterfall behind General Wade’s military road.

Interesting fact: This is the first of the military roads built in the 1720s as part of George 1st’s plan to ‘put down the rebels’ by creating a network of military roads in the Highlands. (Kind of picking up where the Romans left off).

Here we met our first fellow travellers – a group of canoeists travelling in the opposite direction (sage people set off by one of the local adventure companies) and two walkers heading for Fort William along the Great Glen Way.

The latter’s offer of a spot of Bowmore (which we exchanged for shelter under our tarp) lead to a great evening sharing stories and chatting about travel.  Here we had another intrepid adventurer – planning on a sabbatical so he could walk the PCT.  The what? The Pacific Crest Trail.  All 2650 miles of it between Canada and Mexico via California, Washington and Oregon.  I’m impressed again.  But I’ll still settle for the GGCT in a headwind….

Learning point number three: Bowmore can usefully be carried in plastic and still taste good!

Yes, we had chairs, a line for drying our kit and welcome shelter from the rain. I can live on noodles and pasta, but luckily Christopher insists on things that will help keep us comfortable – chairs, dry clothes, proper food and raiding his outdoor kit meant we could cook and prepare ourselves well for Loch Ness.

So far our stop points were in line with our plans and it looked hopeful that we could finish on day 5 – Christopher’s birthday.  As it turned out, Nessie had other ideas.

4. Day three of paddling: Leiterfearn (Loch Oich) to Foyers Fort Augustus

We set out from Leiterfearn feeling well-rested and with the cuckoo still following us. We knew it was going to be a long day to Foyers (half way up Loch Ness) for our next camp. However, our well-laid plans to arrive in Inverness on Christopher’s birthday were about to be well and truly challenged.

The good news is that Loch Oich marks the highest point of the trail so our next break was at Cullochy Upper where we had an easy portage down about 200m.  It’s a pretty little place but Kytra was even lovelier and would make for a very inviting stop.  In both places the low level pontoon is on the North side and the exit pontoons are easy to spot and to take advantage of. We didn’t linger though as we knew that it was a long trip to our next camp half way up Loch Ness at Foyers and we were facing a long portage around five locks at Fort Augustus.

We paddled easily to Fort Augustus, confident that the long portage would be manageable – after all it is downhill and we were getting the hang of it now.

As we approached the exit pontoon we met two paddleboarders heading down the trail (so it isn’t just kayaks and canoes on the trail). Fort Augustus was busy – many people come just to watch boats in the 5 locks which give 12m change in height.  We didn’t need any provisions, so took the boats to the pier for a launch onto Loch Ness.

OH.

Learning point number four: although we had diligently checked weather forecasts, the wind that funnels down the glen adds a good few mph to any stated land values (it would seem). 

The white horses on Loch Ness were plentiful and although we weren’t seeing the 3m waves which have been recorded (!) what we could see was a loch which very plainly said ‘stay put’.  It was an odd feeling to be stranded with just the boats and tent, but we made the most of having the magic GGCT key and had lovely hot showers and a welcome brew.

No excuses, there was plenty of time to cook so chilli and rice it was (but it would have been better if I’d remembered to pack to kidney beans and the sauce mix.  Ah well, curried mince it was then).  Edible, but I won’t be doing that dish again!

Learning point number five: read the menu list that you’ve made, check all the ingredients and then pack them!

We slept, dreaming of flat water in the morning.

5. Day four of paddling: Fort Augustus to Dores

We certainly hadn’t intended to paddle the whole of Loch Ness in a day (23 miles in less than ideal conditions), as it turned out, we made it to the head of the Loch. The initial plan had been to start from Foyers and reach Dochgarroch Lower – which would have made for a shorter final day.

On the premise that the wind was looking to pick up later, we made an early start with a small breakfast, quick cuppa and promise to selves to stop for a brew once we’d got some distance under our belts.

Not quite perfect conditions, but much better than Loch Lochy had been and a significant improvement on the previous evening. We were off!

Next challenge was the launch. Sadly ‘The Book’ couldn’t have predicted the storm damage that had taken away our next launch point, but there is a small beach which meant that we could do a slide and clamber to get going.  We headed out onto Loch Ness with the hope we could make up some time and still finish on day 5.  Unlike Loch Lochy and Loch Oich which have lots of possible stopping points (and many are very pretty), Loch Ness has fewer, especially as we were taking the more exposed South shore.  We identified a few places by looking at OS maps and after a chat with the helpful El at Up and Under in Cardiff (www.upandunder.co.uk) who showed me photos from his trip and pointed out stops that we could look for that aren’t in ‘The Book’.  

Decision making: last Autumn’s trip to Scotland had reminded us that Highland weather can be capricious, so in planning our trip we’d allowed over two weeks to make sure that we could find a good weather window and not create pressure to keep going in poor conditions. This meant that we could take our time on Loch Ness, so we ‘chunked it’ and did what we could, had a break and then reviewed what next. It didn’t alter the fact that we would have liked to finish on day 5, but were determined to make good decisions based on our progress.

We settled on Knockie for breakfast, (there is a site for camping 50m up the slope from the shore) but we just wanted a break and someone had placed some logs by the water – very handy for sitting on.  It was easy to recognise the site as the (private) boathouse is an excellent landmark.

Renewed with tea, coffee and a bowl of cereal, we set off again in the knowledge that the next likely site was before the commercial campsite, not all that far ahead. Conditions were still paddleable, but the headwind continued to challenge us and demand efficient paddle strokes.

Knowing that the next likely place for a stop was just about 5 and a bit miles on we aimed to stop for a recharge at Foyers.  It would have been nice to tarry longer and see the falls, but we were still keen to make up some lost time, so after a good break (and changing to warm clothes for the stop) we decided to go on a bit.

Inverfarigaig looked like the next likely break and would have given us a good start for the next day, but there was no obvious stopping place so we continued.

It all got rather lumpy and unpleasant as we headed out past the headland and the power station.  Being more tired, I wasn’t happy on the constant waves which were coming our way, but once back on the shoreline it was less hilly and just a grind against the wind.

Learning point number six: I need to practice in sidelong waves to improve my confidence, trust the boat more and enable me to take better lines.

Just along here we saw a lone kayaker coming towards us. No, wait, it’s a canoe with a double paddle. That’s a new one to me.

Interesting fact: there is a growing movement of canoeing with two blades.  The history goes back a long way to the 1880s in The Adirondaks where  GW Sears designed small ‘pack canoes’.  Thank you Greg Spencer (@singleblade1 on Twitter for the links: adkforum.com/showthread.php and https://youtu.be/WvF79FmGsis. Both lovely little bits of canoe history if you are interested).

Moving on we looked for a break and found a lovely beach roughly opposite Urquhart Bay and the castle.  The wind continued but as the loch became shallower we got some splashy stuff coming at us and had to land in the lee to avoid filling the kayaks with water as we stepped out.

From here we knew that Dores was within reach.  From Dores we’d be able to complete our final day on Day 5 as planned.  Just a bit further.  We compared the distance with our other paddles, how long might it take?  About 3 miles? That’s doable.  Dores was a great goal. To keep ourselves going we set various trees, rocks or gorse bushes as interim goals: reach one and head for another. The wind was no worse and the waves small.  We had some paddle left in our bodies and also in our minds.  Keeping into the shore we were almost caught out by the submerged fences heading from fields on land and running into the water.

From the fish farm we left the lee of the South shore and made a beeline for the NW end of Dores beach by Tor point. (Still not in a rush to go into a pub because of Covid, we missed the Dores Inn which, by many accounts is worth a stop).  Getting weary, the last stretch felt long, but knowing that from Dores we could reach Inverness the next day, was a strong motivator.

We ran the boats up onto the stony beach and breathed a sigh of relief (and some amazement, to be honest).  We had only planned to take Loch Ness in stages and see how far we could go but were more than a little pleased to have completed it in a day.

It couldn’t have been a better arrival, the sun came out and we walked up the beach to a perfect little clearing in a pine copse where we pitched the tent and had a stunning view down Loch Ness.  Dinner had to be a simple one: burgers on a disposable barbecue. Oh, and a few beers of course.

6. Day 5 of paddling: Dores to Muirtown (Inverness)

There is no doubt, the long day up Loch Ness had taken it out of us. We were going to finish the trip on Christopher’s birthday – our planned five day journey – but the final stretch seemed very, very long.

Learning point number seven: don’t underestimate the energy gained by having purpose and a real hunger to achieve. Setting a clear plan for a day which might feel like a ‘let-down’ would help keep expectations and energy on track.

Paddling the length of Loch Ness (against a wind stubbornly refusing to act as forecast) felt like a major achievement and was underpinned by dramatic scenery and challenging conditions. By contrast the final day’s trip along the canal and back to ‘civilisation’ was almost an anticlimax (and felt further than we had expected).

There is no doubt that, although this wasn’t a particularly long stretch, psychologically it was the hardest.  Whilst Lochy and Ness had chucked waves at us and tested our nerve and confidence, we were paddling the canal with a dearth of adrenaline and very little energy.

It was a pretty trip away from Dores and round Tor Point and we spotted the wrecked coal barges on the South Shore (as described by ‘The Book’) without going for closer inspection.  We safely passed the weir at the River Ness and entered the canal. It was a Saturday, it was sunny, lockdown was easing, there were tourist boats heading out and the towpaths around Dochgarroch Upper were busy.  After a trip seeing very few people, it all seemed like a different world.

It was an easy portage from the low level pontoon on the North side of Dochgarroch Upper and we headed onto the wide and slightly meandering canal to head to Muirtown.  It felt like a slog along the this stretch and, though it seems unappreciative to say so, we had also been spoilt by the stunning views of the Great Glen, so this was less inspiring.  I wonder what we’d have thought, though, if we’d started at this end?

We kept ourselves going with the thought of a hot shower, clean clothes and Chinese takeaway – all handy for the car park…. Nearly there now……

We passed the marinas and ducked under the swing bridge at Torvean.  The Tomnahurich bridge was open and looked so new that we wondered if it had been closed at all.  ‘The Book’ was a little ambiguous about these bridges but there was no portage and no need to walk round.  (Last year we had tested our limbo abilities on the Gloucester and Sharpness Canal which kindly labels the height of the bridges, so we knew that we could pass under 90cm).

We soon, (was it really soon?!) saw Caley Marina on our left and swung round the bend to see the extremely welcome sight of the Muirtown locks, the low level pontoon on our right and our final portage downhill to the van.

7. Day five…and rest

Even in May it wasn’t that warm (note my big cag and gloves!). The tiredness probably contributed, but once out of the boats we enjoyed a bit of sunshine before the downhill trek to the van.

8. ….and on reflection?

It is certain that we can learn from pushing our boundaries – as Marianne Davies would tell me, we learn in the ‘ugly zone’. https://theuglyzone.rocks/

We also need to be able to reflect openly and objectively to get the best from our experiences. There are some things that I’d do differently, some that we definitely got right and other things that were just general things which stem from my fairly short experience in sea kayaks.